San Cristobel de Casas: Kara Beer

Alas our long awaited trip is over and we are back to the routine-filled days in Merida; however, we were each able to take home with us some pretty good memories and I find myself replaying through many of them throughout my day. One of my favorite parts of the trip was San Cristobel de Casas. Everything about this city was so enticing to me and I only wish we had more time to spend exploring. We stayed in a wonderful hotel, Na Bolom, which is a old hacienda that has been converted into a hotel. Na Bolom is also non-profit organization which strives to help the local Maya as well as create environmental awareness about the degradation of the rain forest. The weather in San Cristobel was rainy and cold; however, our rooms had big fireplaces and cozy beds, which always made for a perfect end to a perfect day. Na Bolom also had an excellent kitchen and served some of the most delicious food I have ever tasted. Among their declicacies was the chocolate caliente. (The Chiapian and Oaxacan people definately know how to make some delicious hot chocolate!)One of my favorite memories from San Cristobel was when we traveled to a small Maya village a little ways outside of the city, San Juan Chamula. This was such an incredible experience because we were able to witness the daily lives of the indigenous Tzotzil Maya. These Maya are very different from those in Yucatan and it was very interesting to see another group of Maya in a different setting. The men stood out due to their dress which typically included a thick, wool tunic (white or black), which was used for warmth due to the colder highland climate; the women wore the traditional huipil. While in this town we visited the church of San Juan Chamula, which was unlike any other thing I have ever seen. There were no pews in the church and the floor was carpeted in a bed of pine needles. There were small altars which lined the walls and many had mirrors, which were used in order to deflect the devil. People were scattered about the church, kneeling, often times with sacrifical items.Heavy drapes create a canopy, as they sweep across the expansive churhc ceiling and down the walls. The air is thick with incense, giving off a very strong aroma; they are using copan resin incense which the Maya have used for hundreds of years. Coca-Cola bottles lined the walls and were set on several of the altars as an offering, along with other bottles with unknown liquids. It was very obvious that the religion in Chamula was a blending of traditional Catholicism with pre-conquest Maya rituals. The relgious sycretism was so fascinating to me and I was in complete awe standing in that church. While inside the church we were lucky to witness a procession of musicians, as part of a ceremony for Day of the Dead. The procession was made up of wool tunic-wearing Maya men, all donning western-style cowboy hats, who were playing various instruments, inlcuding an accordian, guitar, flute, and drum. They were very solemn and I was told that these men were considered to be the "authorities" of Chamula, represented by their tunic and hat. (San Juan Chamula was granted autonomity and thus no outside military or police are allowed within the village, but instead Chamula has its own special "police force". This small town made up of indigenous Tzotzil is one of the most incredible places I have ever visited and I know I will never forget my experience there.